Understanding how to install roof shingles is all about starting with your first course just right because every course after that will be based off of the first row. It’s exhausting work, and it can be very cautious if you let it, but when you know the steps needed to perform a job like this in general terms (even if you have no business actually doing such a thing), dealing with a contractor becomes less of an intimidating prospect. This guide will take you through the key steps for a shingle installation, from what happens before the first shingle goes on to the final nail and ridge cap.
It’s important to remember that roofing work is risky. It requires work above the ground, heavy materials and specialized tools. If you’re not sure it’s something you can do safely, then the best way to protect yourself is to call in an expert roofing contractor – and St. Louis homeowners are fortunate to be served by many skilled professional roofers. The unpredictable weather in St. Louis, which can be hot and cold with the potential for violent storms, means proper installation is extremely important toward ensuring your roof will last.
The Base: Prep and Underlayment
The life of your new roof relies almost solely based on the caliber of the planning. The quality of the system to which a shingle is fastened determines its quality. The most frequent error is to rush this stage, which results in early failure.
The deck needs to be sturdy before any shingles are installed. This entails a careful examination of the roof sheathing, which is usually OSB or plywood. Sections that are soft, decaying, or damaged need to be taken out and replaced. The entire surface needs to be dry, clean, and devoid of any obstructions that protrude. All nails should be driven flush.
Next is the first line of defense: the ice and water shield. This is a waterproof membrane that sticks to the roof. It is used in areas that are most likely to form ice dams and get rain blown by the wind. It should be installed along the eaves, which are the lowest edges of the roof. It should extend at least 24 inches up the roof, inside the warm wall. In places with harsh winters, like Missouri, extending it further is a smart choice.
After the ice and water shield, the whole roof deck is covered with synthetic or felt underlayment. This material is rolled out horizontally, starting from the eave and moving up. Each row should overlap the one below it by at least 4 inches. All seams should be stapled or nailed down securely to stop them from lifting in the wind. This underlayment serves as a second weather barrier, protecting the deck if water gets under the shingles.
Installing Drip Edge and Starter Shingles
The features at the borders are crucial to a roof that looks professional and works well. Both the rakes (the roof’s sloping edges) and the eaves have metal drip edges fitted. Water can drop off the fascia thanks to the eave drip edge, which is placed beneath the synthetic underlayment but above the ice and water barrier. The underlayment is covered by the rake drip edge. This straightforward part keeps decay and water damage at bay by diverting water from your fascia board and into the gutters.
Knowing the goal of the introductory course is one of the most important aspects in learning how to install roof shingles. Before the first full course, a unique shingle strip or regular shingles with their tabs cut off—is put in place along the eaves. In addition to providing a stable foundation for the first row of shingles to seal to, the starter shingle also makes sure that the joints between the first-course shingles are covered, keeping wind-driven rain from penetrating beneath. It is applied with the adhesive strip facing up and protruding by approximately ¼ to ¾ of an inch over the drip edge.
The Main Event: Laying the Shingle Courses
Now that the foundation is finished, you can start putting the field shingles in place. When learning how to install roof shingles consistency and adherence to the manufacturer’s instructions are crucial. Directly over the beginning strip, start the first complete course of shingles. To make sure your rows stay level and straight throughout the ceiling plane, use chalk lines that are snapped horizontally every few courses. Proper water shedding requires a small overhang over the drip edge that is in line with the starting strip.
Shingles are set in a way that staggers the seams to distribute water flow and produce a seamless, weatherproof barrier. Shingles are cut to produce a particular offset pattern in order to do this. Although some manufacturers require 6 or 7 inches, the most popular offset is 5 inches. By beginning the first course with a full shingle, you accomplish this. The second course begins as a shorter piece since you cut 6 inches off the previous shingle (for a 5-inch design). Every few courses, the pattern would be repeated, starting with the first shingle chopped off 12 inches for the third course. By using this technique, it is guaranteed that no two seams will align vertically in rows.
Use the nailing pattern specified on the shingle or in the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer as you nail each shingle. This usually entails placing four or six nails per shingle, directly beneath the adhesive strip. Straight and flush nails are essential; over-driven or angled nails can weaken the shingle and provide a way for water to seep in. In order to allow for little thermal expansion and contraction, the shingles should be positioned such they lie flat against the roof without being pressed.
Finishing Strong: Valleys, Flashing, and Ridge Caps
Roof valleys, where two roof planes meet, are prone to leaks due to water and debris accumulation. There are two main finishing methods: open valley, which uses a metal liner and trims shingles back, and closed-cut valley, which weaves shingles and cuts through them. While both methods are effective, the open valley is generally seen as more durable and easier to maintain, especially in regions like St. Louis that experience heavy rainstorms.
Any penetration through the roof, such as plumbing vents, chimneys, or skylights, requires flashing. Step flashing is used along the sides of walls and chimneys, while pipe boots are used for plumbing vents. It is essential to integrate this flashing properly with the underlayment and shingles, always layering materials so that water flows over each subsequent layer, never getting trapped behind it.
Installing the ridge cap is the last step in the roof shingle installation procedure. The ridge is left uncovered as the main field shingles are extended to the roof’s top. Standard three-tab shingles are usually sliced into individual tabs or pre-formed caps are used to create ridge cap shingles. As directed by the manufacturer, they are fitted by bending them over the ridge and fastening them with nails, typically one on each side. Each cap overlaps the one before it to form a weathertight seal, and the installation begins at one end of the ridge, which is opposite the direction of the predominant wind. This completes the roof’s appearance and permits ventilation at the top, which is an essential component of a healthy roofing system.
Final Thoughts
In summary, understanding how to install roof shingles is important because roof shingle installation is a time-consuming and intricate task that requires accuracy, appropriate materials, and strict adherence to safety. Although this guideline is exhaustive, it can never be a substitute for the work of professionals practicing under license. The professional installation of a roof is an investment in the security and value of your home, which every homeowner (including those from St. Louis to anywhere else) can understand.